COTANCE News March 2025
COTANCE News March 2025
Women in Tanneries: Special Womens’ 2nd Edition
March is all about celebrating women—their strength, their ambition, and their impact. After the overwhelming success of our March 2024 edition, we knew we had to make this a tradition. This year, we’re back, diving deeper into the untold stories of the incredible women working in the European leather industry. From breaking barriers to mastering the craft, their journeys are as bold and resilient as the leather they help create.
The second edition of our special newsletter will feature three women from Italy, Spain, and Portugal, each representing a different age group, job role, and career journey. Their stories highlight passion, resilience, and opportunity, proving that the leather industry is full of possibilities for those ready to challenge conventions.
By sharing their experiences, COTANCE hopes to inspire more women to explore careers in this evolving sector—one where talent, skill, and determination matter more than ever.
Barbara Mastrotto
ITALY
Coming from a family of pioneers in the leather industry, Barbara Mastrotto began her career at 22, working in accounting and logistics before joining the Automotive Division of Rino Mastrotto in 2004. Now Head of the Automotive & Mobility Business Unit, she champions meritocracy, ethical leadership, and sustainability, striving to balance its environmental, social, and economic pillars.
LauraCastro Gonçalves
PORTUGAL
At just 24 years old, Laura Castro Gonçalves has been part of A. Castro & Filhos for four years, gaining experience in various roles. With a degree in Marketing Management, she now leads chemicals and commercial operations, focusing on innovative and sustainable solutions for the leather industry.
Irene Tarazona
SPAIN
As HR Manager at INCUSA, Irene Tarazona is dedicated to creating a workplace where talent thrives. She actively supports women in the leather industry, ensuring equal opportunities for training and leadership. By bridging the gender gap, she helps make tanneries a more inclusive and rewarding place to work.
Your Journey into Leather: What inspired you to join the leather industry? Was it a deliberate choice, or did you discover your passion for leather along the way?
Irene: I have always found it a fascinating sector because it is related to the world of fashion, which I am passionate about. I found myself in an unknown sector that attracted me from the very first moment and that was completely different from my previous professional experiences.
Barbara: For me it was a simple and almost obvious choice. I have always heard about leather in my family and the passion for this particular product was passed on to me by my dad who is in love with leather, with the ever-evolving technology needed to process it, and with the importance of tanning in enhancing a by-product of slaughtering from the food industry. I was very happy when he asked me to join the company to bring my own contribution, and it was in the automotive world that I found myself.
Laura: I entered the leather industry almost by chance. After university, I started working in the family business and, over time, I realized how challenging and fascinating this sector was. Today, I love what I do and know that it is a demanding field, requiring dedication, knowledge, and constant innovation. It is an industry full of creativity and challenges.
Breaking Stereotypes: The leather industry has traditionally been male-dominated. Have you encountered challenges as a woman in this sector? How have you overcome them?
Irene: Yes, I found myself at a very young age in a mostly male sector, but that helped me to reinvent myself, to set goals and objectives at a professional level, as well as to develop new skills that have made me grow personally and professionally.
Barbara: The leather industry is a male-dominated world indeed. I have been lucky, however, because the industry I supervise is international, and I have been able to deal from the very beginning with markets such as the United States, which was more advanced in this sense, even 20 years ago, having women in leadership roles. The Italian experience, on the other hand, was initially a bit more close-minded, but with determination, professionalism, and pragmatism it was possible to handle even some less comfy situations.
Laura: The leather industry has traditionally been male-dominated, but that has never been an obstacle for me. I work with many women, and I feel that we have an equal place alongside men, with the same opportunities to grow and innovate. I believe and know that knowledge, dedication, and results are what truly matter, and that is what allows us to establish our place in the industry.
The Beauty of Leather: What aspects of leather do you think deserve more recognition, especially among younger consumers?
Laura: Leather is a timeless and natural material that carries the history of our ancestors, reflecting generations of knowledge and craftsmanship. Behind every piece lies hard work, dedication, and skill, transforming raw material into something truly unique. Its exceptional durability allows it to last for generations without losing its quality or charm. Moreover, leather stands out for its endless creative possibilities—offering a wide range of designs, colors, and finishes—while maintaining its authentic and sustainable character.
Barbara: Innovative, sustainable, Circular, Zero waste approach, uniqueness, high performance, durability, heritage, animal well-fair … I would say all of these are features that young consumers highly appreciate. The challenge this material often faces with young people and the final market in general is getting known for what it genuinely is. It is up to us to improve in communicating and providing facts that support the value of it.
Work-Life Balance & Passion: What do you love most about working in this industry? How does your job balance technical skills, creativity, and tradition?
Laura: What fascinates me most about this industry is the perfect balance between tradition, technical expertise, and creativity. Leather carries centuries of history while offering endless possibilities for innovation. In my work, precision and attention to detail go hand in hand with the freedom to create and reinvent, making each day dynamic and inspiring.
A Message to Young Women: Many young women may not consider a career in tanneries. What would you say to those who are curious but unsure about entering this industry?
Barbara: Tannery is a challenging but at the same time fascinating industry. It can open up opportunities in different markets and roles: fashion, interiors, automotive…. and it requires different skills ranging from technical expertise to creativity …. It ’is an industry that is thrilling. The world of tanning has mellowed, and new generations have helped make it less male-oriented. There is more of a preference for teamwork, and female input is appreciated.
The conclusion is clear: European tanneries are not just places of opportunity for women; it is a sector where they are already making significant impacts and leading change. By highlighting their achievements maybe we inspire more women to join this exciting and evolving world of leather.
Read the full interviews at euroleather.com
COTANCE News Jan – Feb 2025
Leather Biodegradability: Another Reason to Embrace Leather
We often hear about massive floating ”islands” of plastic polluting our oceans. But have you ever wondered why leather is never part of that conversation
One possible explanation: leather is a natural, biodegradable material. Unlike plastic, which lingers in the environment for centuries, leather naturally breaks down at the end of its life.
When produced using natural or biobased tanning agents and biodegradable additives, leather can decompose in industrial composting in as little as 20 days (as highlighted in Karl Flowers’ article, “Opportunities at Leather’s End-of-Life,” ILM, Sep-Oct 2024). That’s a timeframe comparable to vegetable waste, which takes 5–30 days!
Let’s be clear: all materials eventually biodegrade, but what sets leather apart is its ability to decompose quickly (20–60 days) and safely for the environment, transforming—under the right conditions—into compost that enriches the soil with vital nutrients.
This unique feature makes leather not only a valuable part of the circular economy, but also one of the most sustainable fashion materials.
And that’s just one of many reasons to choose leather!
Biodegradability refers to the process by which organic materials are broken down by microorganisms into simpler components like carbon dioxide, water, and ammonia.
Compostability, a measure of biodegradation, refers to the ability of a material to break down into biomass without releasing harmful or toxic substances—provided it does not contain hazardous components that persist after decomposition.
Any leather can be composted but the speed of degradation and environmental impact depends on the tanning chemistry used.
Producing fully biodegradable leather requires advanced technological solutions, and the industry is making incredible strides in this area. But even conventionally produced European leather demonstrates the ability to decompose naturally, and here are the studies to back it up.
A Study of the Composting Capacity of Different Kinds of Leathers, Leatherette, and Alternatives
The study demonstrated that genuine leather, especially alginate-treated, fully degrades within 21–25 days, with wet-blue leather degrading in 31–35 days. Alternatives like leatherette, Piñatex®, and Desserto® showed no degradation after 90 days, underscoring leather’s superior biodegradability compared to synthetic and plant-based substitutes.
Material Circular Bioeconomy: Disintegration and Biodegradability of Leather and Trendy Alternatives
Vegetable-tanned leather compost promoted 74% more plant growth and proved suitable for agriculture, showcasing leather’s capacity to enrich soils. Meanwhile, most fake leather alternatives showed poor biodegradability, raising significant waste concerns at the end of their life.
Compost-Leather_able II Project
Compost-Leather-Able II Project (INESCOP, IVACE & ERDF)
This study demonstrated that all five tested leather types, featuring various tannages and finishes, exhibited high biodegradability and compostability under lab conditions. However, polymeric finishes sometimes degraded slower than leather, leaving residual fractions in compost.
Assessment of the Biodegradability and Compost of Finished Leathers
These findings underscore the potential of eco-friendly finishes to reduce the environmental footprint of leather production, promoting sustainability and further aligning leather with circular economy goals. Bio-based finishes showed strong biodegradability, while traditional finishes exhibited moderate levels. Notably, some finishes enhanced plant growth during composting, highlighting leather’s potential for eco-friendly practices in production.
Leather stands out as the most sustainable material available
With its ability to “transform waste into beauty”, support closed-loop production cycles, and naturally return to the environment at the end of its service life, leather stands out as one of the most sustainable materials available. Its unique properties make it a crucial ally in achieving the goals of the EU Green Deal, supporting the success of key regulations like the Ecodesign, Waste Framework & Green Claims Directives.
So, as you consider your next purchase, remember: choosing leather is choosing a material that supports the planet—from cradle to grave.
COTANCE News 11/2024 – November 2024
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